Filling Your Horse Up With Forage This Winter

With temperatures dropping and the frost setting in, your horses pasture may now start to look rather sparse and those patches of grass that haven’t already been turned into a wallow of mud, are likely to finally stop growing. Many of you will start to worry therefore, that your horses and ponies are no longer getting what they need from their pasture.

Second to water, forage is the most important part of any horses and ponies diet, as fibre from forage provides a valuable source of calories to help maintain the horse’s weight and is essential for maintaining gut health and the absorption of nutrients. It is important to ensure then, that they are receiving a sufficient amount, below are some useful tips to help you do this.

5 Fabulous Truths about Feeding Forage

 

·       Ad-Lib access to forage is ideal for any horse or pony unless they start to gain too much weight

·       All horses and ponies (including good doers) need a minimum of 1.5% dry matter of their bodyweight in forage per day (7.5kg for a 500kg horse)

·       If continuing to turn horses/ponies out to pasture, as a guide, if stabling for approx.12hours, provide no less than a minimum of half their forage ration in their boxes as hay/haylage/hay replacer, as we cannot be sure how much is being received as grass.

·       If providing a forage only diet, provide a balancer to ensure the correct levels of vitamins, minerals and quality proteins.

·       Try to avoid long periods of time where your horse or pony has no access to forage which could increase the risk of conditions such as colic/ulcers.

 

2 Top Tips When Feeding Forage to Poor Doers

·       In winter months, grass intake may need to be virtually ignored, meaning a greater amount will need to be supplemented, especially for poor doers. Additional forage may also need to be provided in the field if possible – you might even find this encourages them to stand away from the gate!

·       Although many often think haylage is richer/more nutritious, therefore less is needed in comparison to hay, in fact due to the additional water content of haylage, you need to offer 25-50% more than you would as hay (10-11kg of haylage in place of 7.5kg of hay.)

 

3 Ways To Manage A Good Doers Forage Intake

 

·  If your horse or pony has a tendency to greedily consume their hay or haylage all at once, consider putting one hay net inside the other, to help slow them down. Placing these nets in several stations around the stable can also help encourage them to take their time.

·   For especially good doers, or laminitics, soaking hay for 12-16hours is highly recommended to achieve maximum leaching of water soluble carbohydrates (sugar + fructan – stored sugar in grass)

 

·       Good quality oat or barley straw is a low energy option, making it ideal for good doers, although it is best used as a partial rather than sole forage source.

Does Your Horse Need A Hay Replacer To Stay Happy & Healthy?

·     Horses and ponies that can no longer manage long fibre such as hay or haylage will require a hay replacer. From the SPILLERS® range consider SPILLERS HAPPY HOOF®, SPILLERS HAPPY HOOF® Molasses Free or SPILLERS® High Fibre Cubes (cubes can be soaked to form a mash) and un-molassed sugar beet is also a great option.

·     If providing a hay replacer, ideally this should be provided in as many small servings as possible, and divided between several buckets to help encourage ‘trickle feeding’. If providing a hard feed, offer this first, followed by the hay replacer, so that they do not necessarily see it as another ‘feed’.  

 

There are many ways to ensure then that you horse or pony has sufficient forage this winter, even when struggling with poor pasture. Should you have a more specific query however please contact the SPILLERS® Care-Line of 01908 22 66 26.

Winter Weight Loss

Winter presents a number of challenges, particular for poor-doers and of course their owners! If the recent cold snap and a lack of grazing has left your horse looking a little too lean, the following tips may help you to combat that dreaded winter weight loss.

First and foremost forage is the foundation of every horses diet, so start by ensuring your hay or haylage is of good quality and fed adlib, ideally in the field as well as the stable. Far from being ‘just bulk’, forage provides the lion share of your horse’s energy (calorie) intake and is essential for maintaining gut health. If your horse is a ‘fussy-feeder’ it may be worth monitoring how much forage he is ‘choosing’ to eat, aiming for a minimum of 1.5% bodyweight per day, (7.5-8kg/ day for a 500kg horse). Although grass intake is impossible for horse owners to measure, it can generally be ignored for underweight horses on poor pasture. Haylage is not automatically ‘richer’ as commonly thought and it is important to remember that due to higher moisture content, you need to feed approximately 1.2-1.5 times more haylage than hay by weight.  Forage analysis is the only way to determine the nutritional value of both hay and haylage and may be particularly useful when it comes to calculating haylage rations or choosing the most suitable forage supply for you individual horse. If your horse or pony has poor teeth, look for a short chop hay replacer or a cube that be soaked to make a mash.

Although moving to a ‘conditioning’ feed may seem like the obvious choice, start by checking that you are feeding the recommended ration of your current feed as a simple increase may be all that is needed; even if your feed says ‘low energy’ or ‘low calorie’ on the bag. If this doesn’t achieve the desired result; look for a feed containing higher levels of digestible energy and protein. Choosing fibre and oil rather than cereal based feeds is the most sympathetic option both in terms of digestive health and preventing unwanted excitability. However if your horse is prone to any clinical conditions such as laminitis, colic or tying-up, speak to a nutritionist before changing his feed. Traditionally sugar beet has been a common addition to winter diets and although it is high in calories and fibre, it contains approximately 80% water once soaked, making it easy to overestimate how much of it you are feeding. Whilst a Stubbs scoop of soaked beet pulp may look like a significant contribution to your horse’s bucket, it actually contains limited nutritional value. In fact, just 1 scoop of Horse of Pony Cubes is approximately 5 times higher in calories!

Finally make sure your horse is well rugged to help ensure he isn’t wasting valuable energy from his feed keeping warm. If you are reaching for an extra duvet you may need to think about doing the same for your horse!

Managing your horse's diet for Winter

Autumn is now well and truly upon us and as the leaves start to fall and the temperature begins to drop; many of us turn our thoughts towards winter feeding. Being proactive is undoubtedly the best strategy but this doesn’t necessarily mean we should be reaching for higher calorie feeds. In fact, results from this year’s National Equine Health Survey show that the incidence of obesity has more than doubled in the last year.

If your horse is a good-doer don’t be tempted to increase his feed just because the weather is changing; particularly if he has come out summer carrying excess weight. Winter provides a natural opportunity to lose weight, particularly for natives and allowing good-doers to slim down as nature intended helps to prevent excess weight gain in the following spring.

Even in winter months, many good-doers will continue to maintain weight well or in some cases too well on forage alone. When this is the case, a balancer is the ideal way to ensure that vitamin, mineral and protein requirements are met, without feeding excess calories.

Where possible, opt for soaked hay rather than haylage. Although haylage is not automatically ‘richer’ as commonly thought, soaking hay helps to reduce the sugar content and of course, less sugar means less calories! Dividing hay between several, double-netted small-holed haylage nets may also help to extend foraging behaviour and make reduced rations last longer. Forage should never be restricted to less than 1.5% of bodyweight per day without veterinary supervision. For a 500kg horse, this equates to 7.5kg per day although if your horse has access to grazing, it will of course be impossible to measure exactly how much he is actually eating. As a guide, feed no less than 50% of your horse’s minimum daily ration if stabled for 12 hours, remembering that this may need to be increased depending on his condition and grazing.

Grazing muzzles have been proven to reduce grass intake by 80% on average, regardless of the season and if necessary, can be used in winter months too. Provided there is sufficient grass covering, good-doers may only need additional hay when it is very cold or if there is snow on the ground, so try to avoid turning overweight horses out with those who need ad-lib hay.

Maintaining a healthy body condition plays a key role in supporting your horse or pony’s general health and well-being. Weekly weigh taping, preferably at the same time of day can help to you to keep track of gradual changes in bodyweight. However weight is just a number, so try to combine this with regular body condition scoring, aiming for a score of 5 on a 1-9 scale. Having said this, allowing good-doers to enter spring at a leaner score of 4.5 is generally acceptable provided that they are otherwise fit and healthy.

A Late Laminitis Season?

This certainly has been an unusual year when it comes to the weather: firstly a delayed spring which saw some of the coldest temperatures for over 50 years and now in July a mini heat wave with temperatures around 30 degrees. As grass growth was delayed and owners are becoming more aware of the dangers of obesity, cases of spring laminitis have been low; but summer still holds its risks. The following is a guide to managing the risks in order to help keep your horse or pony safe.

For very susceptible animals, zero grazing will be the safest and in some cases, the only option. For those with access to grazing, consider the following recommendations:

·         It is impossible to predict fructan levels (the storage form of sugar in grass) at any one time but levels are likely to lower at night – consider turning out late until and until early morning (or mid-morning at the latest).

·         Avoid grazing on hay stubble- stems can be higher in fructans than the leaf.

·         Consider using a grazing muzzle – studies have shown that they can reduce grass intake by up to 80%. Take care to ensure that your horse/ pony’s muzzle fits correctly and he is happy to eat and drink before leaving him unsupervised. Introduce the muzzle gradually and do not leave it for 24 hours per day

·         If turning out for only a few hours, still consider using a muzzle – in recent studies, horse’s on restricted forage quickly learnt to eat almost two thirds of their daily allowance in only 3-5 hours at grass

·         As an alternative to grazing muzzles, consider strip grazing (taking care to ‘back fence’) or making use bark paddocks or ménages

·         Feed soaked hay, although in hot weather it is not advisable to soak for more than 3-6 hours due to the increased risk of bacterial growth or a hay replacer approved by The Laminitis Trust during periods of no grazing. Alternatively consider having your forage analysed

·         Do not over-feed – if you horse or pony is able to maintain weight on forage alone, a balancer is the ideal way to provide vitamins, minerals and amino acids without excess calories. If additional feed is required, avoid all mixes and choose fibre and oil based feed that are low in starch and sugar

·         Keep your horse’s waistline in check – a body condition score of 5 out of 9 is ideal

·         Where possible maintain a regular exercise programme

Laminitis can affect any horse or pony at any time so remember be vigilant as prevention is always better than cure!

Bran benefits

Bran, often in the form of bran mash, has long been fed to horses as a source of fibre or laxative to help prevent colic, as a warm and palatable feed for sick horses or those with poor teeth and after a hard days hunting. However, should these feeding practices be considered as words from the wise or an outdated tradition?

One of the biggest problems associated with feeding bran is its very high phosphorus content. The ratio of calcium to phosphorus in the horse’s diet should be ideally maintained at 1.5-2:1 (1.5-2 times more calcium than phosphorus) but in comparison, bran contains 10-12 times more phosphorous than calcium. High levels of phosphorus decrease calcium absorption, resulting in deficiency. Consequently, calcium is drawn from bones (where 99% of calcium is stored) which in serious cases, causes them to weaken. Although far less common now, feeding large amounts of bran and consequently high levels of phosphorus, can result in ‘Millers Disease’ (Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism); a condition which eventually results thickening and distortion of bones caused  by lost minerals being replaced with fibrous tissue.

Feeding small amounts of bran on an infrequent basis will not cause major mineral imbalances, but as we all seem to appreciate that new feeds should be introduced gradually, why make an exception for bran? In fact, some researchers believe that this could have a negative effect on the hindgut microbes responsible for fibre digestion. Research has also shown than bran does not act as laxative, regardless of whether it is fed wet or dry. Instead, any ‘laxative effect’ is likely to be the caused by the mild disturbance or irritation resulting from the sudden introduction of a new feed.

For people, fibre (including bran) can increase the bulk of stools by helping them to retain more water and consequently make them easier to pass. However, fibre requirements in horses are much higher and whilst bran does contain fibre, the content is much lower (10-12%) than in sugar beet (20% - unmolassed) and hay.  In fact even as a source of water, the benefits of a bran mash may be questionable when you consider the small amount of water actually consumed in comparison to the horse’s daily requirements.

Many of us reach for a mug of hot chocolate or soup in colder weather and whilst a feeding a warm bran mash may be a comforting thought, it will not continue to keep your horse warm after he has eaten it.  As a result of fermentation in the large intestine, the digestion of hay and other forages produces heat (regardless of the weather) and therefore nutritionally, feeding additional hay is more likely to help keep your horse warm.

Whilst feeding bran will not always result in serious harm, particularly if properly balanced and fed in small amounts to adult horses; reported benefits are based largely on tradition. Consider whether adding bran to your horse’s diet is really necessary as unfortunately, it is one feeding tradition that may potentially cause more harm than good.

Molasses Myths

Molasses seems to have become somewhat of a swear word and during the last year, the number of enquiries that I receive about molasses certainly seems to be increasing. So, what is the truth about molasses and should we really be fearful of it?

Molasses is a by-product taken from the refining of sugar beet or sugar cane and contrary to popular belief, contains approximately 55% sugar. Molasses or alternatives such as Molaferm and Molgo (made from a blend of molasses and oil) are used by the majority of feed manufactures and therefore very few feeds are molasses free. However, this does not automatically deem feeds ‘unsafe’ or ‘unnatural’ as commonly thought.

Many people fear that sugar is unnatural to the horse but in fact, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Horses evolved to consume a forage only diet and therefore are well adapted to digesting and absorbing sugar. In fact, the sugar in molasses is largely sucrose, the same sugar found in grass! Horses cannot be ‘allergic’ to sugar and all horses, even those prone to conditions such as laminitis, need some sugar to stay healthy (see previous blogs on allergies and sugar). Having said this, problems can occur when overweight, under-exercised horses/ ponies are fed high levels of sugar and there are undoubtedly some that need a low sugar diet. However, this doesn’t automatically mean that feeds containing molasses are unsuitable.

Firstly, ‘molasses free’ does not mean sugar free and feeds containing molasses are not automatically high in sugar. If your horse needs to be on low sugar diet it is the total amount of sugar in the diet and not just the inclusion of individual ingredients such as molasses that should be of concern. In fact, many feeds suitable for laminitics and excitable horses do contain some molasses. Molasses or molasses and oil blends are typically added at 5-10% and therefore may contribute as little as 2% sugar. In total, mixes, cubes and chaffs typically contain 4-6% sugar and when you consider the quantities, in which they are eaten in comparison to forage, actually account for a very small proportion of the total sugar consumed. In fact, forage is the largest contributor sugar in the horses’ diet (including hay) and a 500kg horse living out at grass can easily consume up to 1.9kg of sugar per day from glass alone (compared to approximately 120-180g in 3kg of ‘hard’ feed).

The term ‘everything in moderation’ is often accepted as good advice for humans and in the case of molasses, is perhaps something that should be applied to our horses. In truth, the facts often do not justify the fears and molasses is certainly not something that must be avoided at all costs.

Feeding Sugar Beet – The Facts

Sugar beet has long been fed to horses, but trying to separate the myths and misconceptions from the facts, can often make the decision of whether or not to feed sugar beet a confusing decision. So what is sugar beet and what can we, or should we, really be using it for?

Sugar beet is a root vegetable, the root of which is high in sucrose (table sugar). The sugar beet pulp we feed to our horses is the by-product of sugar beet processing which provides the sugar to put in our tea!

Sugar beet is high in fibre but in low starch and sugar (if unmolassed- approximately 5%) and therefore is a safe, easily digested and non-heating feed. For laminitics, look for varieties approved by The Laminitis Trust. Sugar beet is also high in calcium and low in phosphorus (which is ideal for horses) and being rich in branch chain amino acids, can be a useful feed for horses with liver damage.  Sugar beet must always be soaked before feeding (10 minutes – 24 hours depending on the variety) so as not to cause choke or colic.

Although high in calories (up to 13 MJ/ DE/ kg depending on the variety) and commonly fed for weight gain, sugar beet contains approximately 80% water once soaked and therefore is of very little nutritional value unless fed in large amounts (nutrients are diluted in water). This considered, sugar beet is often not fed in large enough quantities to provide a significant level of calories. A scoop of soaked sugar beet weighing 1kg, actually equates to only 200g of feed (approximately). For good-doers this is of course ideal as once soaked,  only a small cupful will go a long way, helping to add ‘bulk’ without excess calories. The motto of the story here is to weigh your sugar beet before you soak it!

 

Being high in digestible fibre, sugar beet can also be fed as partial hay replacer for horses and ponies with poor teeth but again, take care to weigh it before soaking to ensure that you are providing enough fibre!

Used correctly, sugar beet can be a useful and versatile feed but like any other, must be understood if we are to see the benefits. Will you be feeding sugar beet this winter?

16 years young...



"I'm as young as I feel"



We all want to do the best for our horses as they get older, but when is the ‘right time’ to move to a senior feed? In truth, there is no definitive answer as like people, horse’s age at different rates.  In the past horses at 16 were sometimes described as ‘veterans’ however nowadays with suitable management many horses continue to live healthy and active lives well into their twenties or even thirties! 

Not all horses struggle to maintain condition as they get older, so it is important to choose feeds containing an appropriate level of energy (energy = calories). For those able to maintain weight well on forage alone, a balancer specifically formulated to meet the needs of senior horses, is the ideal way to ensure optimum nutrition without excess calories.

With age and previous worm damage, digestion and absorption of nutrients may be less efficient. A high fibre diet is essential for maintaining digestive health and constant access to water helps to prevent impaction colic. Some horses may also benefit from additional digestive support in the form of pro/ prebiotics. Feeds high in antioxidants, particularly vitamins C and E, provide respiratory and immune support.

Quality protein is important for helping to maintain muscle tone and topline but again, protein digestion may be less efficient in older horses. As a guide, look for feeds containing 12-14% protein (for compounds feeds – balancers will be higher than this). Stiffness and arthritis (to varying degrees), are common in older horses and some may benefit from feeds or supplements containing additives such as glucosamine.

Teeth can become a problem for many older horses and should be checked regularly (every six months). If not addressed, difficulties in chewing can lead to conditions such as choke, colic and weight loss. Look for mixes containing smaller pellets or where necessary, feeds/ cubes that can be soaked to make a mash. Remember that this may need to include a full replacer, either in the form of soaked cubes or short chopped fibre feeds.

Horses and ponies with Cushing’s disease need the same, careful nutritional management as a laminitic; regardless of whether or not they are on medication or have previously suffered from laminitis. In practise, this means providing a diet that is high in fibre and low in starch (found in cereals), sugar and fructans (found in grass). If your senior horse has Cushing’s, or is prone to conditions such as colic or tying up; avoid mixes and seek advice from a nutritionist. Remember that the most suitable diet may include feeds that do not say ‘senior’ on the bag.

Whilst the ageing process is inevitable, nutrition can play an important role in supporting senior horses whether they are in work or enjoying retirement. How many years ‘young’ is your horse?

Hay or Haylage: What will your choice be this winter?



Hay or Haylage? What will it be?
Image courtesy of Hannah Briars



The horses’ digestive health relies on suitable fibre intake and consequently forage should account for the largest portion of the horses’ diet (never less than 50%). Despite its importance, forage is often overlooked or misunderstood, resulting in conflicting beliefs. This can make it hard for owners to make the right choices when it comes to their horse’s forage.

One of the biggest misconceptions when it comes to forage, is the belief that you should feed less haylage than hay. In fact, due to the higher moisture content (nutrients are diluted in water); you generally need to feed more haylage to ensure sufficient fibre intake (approximately 1.5 times more by weight).

Haylage can be higher in nutrients than hay but in truth, forage analysis is the only way to guarantee the nutritional value of either hay or haylage; regardless of its age, the cut or physical appearance.

When it comes to hay, owners often contact me following conflicting advice on soaking and steaming. Soaking for respiratory conditions such as RAO (Recurrent Airway Obstruction, formerly referred to as COPD) causes dust particles to swell, ensuring that they are ingested rather than inhaled. Studies have shown that whilst soaking for 10 minutes reduces dust particles; steaming is most effective for improving hygienic quality (reduces dust and mould particles).

For laminitics, forage should ideally contain less than 10% water soluble carbohydrate (WSC – sugar plus fructan), but many samples of hay that we analyse contain close to 20%, sometimes more. Although unable to guarantee safety, soaking hay for 12-16 hours in tepid water can reduce the WSC by up to 50%. Alternatively, consider a low sugar hay replacer approved by The Laminitis Trust.

Understanding forage is key to making the best decision for your horse. As summer draws to a close and our thoughts turn to winter, what will your choice be?

Protein: Is it the root of all evil?

In science lessons we are taught that proteins are ‘the building blocks of life’, essential for growth and repair. This is true for us and also true for our horses. Proteins consist of long chains of amino acids, 10 of which (there are 22 in total) cannot be synthesised by the horse and therefore must be provided by the diet. This considered, can protein really be responsible for as many problems as is often believed?

Too much protein is often thought to cause/ contribute to conditions such as laminitis, colic and tying up. However, years of research has shown that nutritionally, excess starch and sugar (including fructan in grass) is often responsible and not protein. If undigested in the small intestine, starch and sugar is rapidly fermented in the large intestine resulting in the production of lactic acid. This causes damage and death to gut bacteria which can consequently lead to conditions such as laminitis and colic. Whilst many factors can have an effect nutritionally, it is also high levels of starch and sugar that can cause/ exacerbate excitability. So if research tells us otherwise, why is protein often deemed the culprit?

One possible explanation could be the law surrounding feed labels. Protein content must be declared on feed labels but for many years, this was not the case for starch (must now be declared if making a claim i.e. ‘non-heating’). Consequently, if moving to a higher energy feed resulted in a change of behaviour or episode of laminitis, many owners may have thought the increase in protein (and not the hidden increase in starch) was responsible.

Aside from the conditions above, lumps and bumps on the skin and filled legs are the most common reasons owners ask me for advice on low protein diets. Although traditionally diagnosed as ‘protein bumps’, in many cases, lumps and bumps are not diet related. True feed allergies are very rare are the result of a specific type of protein and therefore reducing the amount fed would be unlikely to help (see previous blog on allergies).

When not accompanied by heat or lameness, being stabled for longer periods i.e. overnight is generally considered to be one of the most common causes of filled legs. In fact, there is no reason why excess protein should cause filled legs and therefore any accompanying feed changes are likely to be coincidental.

Although there are some clinical conditions which do demand a low protein diet (namely liver and kidney damage); protein is essential for growth, life and health and certainly does not deserve the bad press it often receives.