Getting To Grips With Ulcers

 Although originally associated predominantly with racehorses, ulcers have become increasingly recognised in sport and leisure horses also (11% of leisure horse owners mentioned Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome in the 2015 National Equine Health Survey.) First of all you need to get your head around your horses’ digestive system. The stomach can be split in two, the region food first enters is the non glandular section, not protected by a mucous layer. Below is the glandular section, where hydrochloric acid is produced and is consequently protected by a mucous layer. Ulcers occur as a result of prolonged exposure of the stomach lining to gastric juices and disruption to mucus production, causing erosion and ulceration, more often in the non glandular unprotected region. In the wild, horses would roam continually on pasture, eating little and often. To support this behaviour, the digestive system evolved to produce gastric acid continually throughout the day, breaking down forage. It is important to remember however as the horse continually chews, saliva containing bicarbonate is produced, acting as a buffer to the gastric acid. In their domesticated environment however, your four legged friends may not always have the opportunity to utilise these natural adaptions.

There are various factors that are believed to be connected with ulcer occurrence. Firstly reduced access to forage, which means acid is allowed to build up, teamed with a lack of chewing, so limited saliva is available to buffer this. High cereal starch diets can encourage rapid microbial fermentation leading to excess acid. Stressful situations including travel and competitions can cause disruptions to the mucus lining the stomach, reducing its acid defence. Irregular feeding patterns which may mean horses are without feed for long periods. Finally gastric splashing, which involves acid from the bottom of the stomach splashing up to the non glandular region, which can occur especially when horses are galloping regularly on an empty stomach.

If you suspect your horse has ulcers, the vet must be contacted and alongside treatment there are steps you can take from a nutritional point of view. Access to forage is essential and should not be restricted to less than 1.5% of bodyweight per day. Avoid your horse standing for long periods of time without forage, allowing pasture turn out wherever possible. Straw should not be used as the sole forage supply, as it is abrasive, has low buffering capacity and does not form an effective fibre mat in the bottom of the stomach to help prevent splashing. If possible, provide forage whilst travelling and before exercise in small holed haynets if required, to try to slow your horse down.

Regarding hard feed, starch intake should be restricted to less than 1g per kilogram bodyweight per meal, so look for feed containing less than 20% starch or less than 15% in low energy/calorie feeds. Feed little and often, adding alfalfa to compounds to lengthen eating time. Due to the high protein and calcium content, alfalfa is also useful for its buffering capacity against acid. If your horse needs help gaining weight, consider using feeds higher in oil rather than traditional conditioning feeds with high starch levels, alternatively pure oil can be added, however speak to a nutritionist for advice on this to ensure the diet remains balanced.  Water should be available at all times to encourage saliva production and flow and if your horse is sweating regularly and you need to supplement with electrolytes, avoid using pastes. Always provide a balanced diet, offering either the recommend amount of feed, or a balancer. Finally a supplement may be considered, however it is important to remember these cannot replace the need for veterinary treatment.

Should ulcers become a problem for your beloved friend, do not be at a loss, with appropriate treatment and by putting the above tips in to practise, hopefully they will be back to their old selves in no time.

Keeping it cool this summer!

Rising temperatures this summer often result in sweaty horses and ponies after those longer rides, competitions and when travelling too. It is important to ensure then, that our beloved friends stay fully hydrated at all times. In order to achieve this, both water and electrolytes are needed, as providing greater quantities of water alone will simply cause the body to excrete the excess, as it is not able to be retained. I often hear of horse owners adding salt to their horses feeds, however many are unsure how to do this correctly.

Electrolytes are mineral salts which, when dissolved in water, become electrically charged particles called ions. Sweating causes the loss of electrolytes, in particular sodium, chloride and potassium but also magnesium and calcium in smaller amounts. Electrolytes are extremely important, required for numerous functions including muscle contractions and transmission of nerve impulses. Imbalances could therefore lead to conditions including heat stress, fatigue, synchronous diaphragmatic flutter (thumps) and tying up. Free access to a salt lick is generally more than sufficient for horses at rest/light work and with suitable rest, most losses can be replaced over time with eating and drinking. For horses in harder work however, sweating on a regular basis, additional support is advisable. 1-3 tablespoons of Table Salt (sodium chloride) depending on sweating rate may be sufficient for horses receiving >1% of their bodyweight in forage per day, as forage provides potassium. Horses sweating heavily, especially when on restricted forage diets, may also need additional potassium therefore adding 0.5-1.5 tablespoons of Lo-Salt (sodium chloride & potassium chloride) per day on top, will be beneficial. Salt can be added directly to feed, or diluted in water, however additional water must always be offered alongside both methods. Try to ensure that horses are familiar with drinking solutions before using them at an event and if adding to feed, do so after they have started drink to prevent further dehydration. It is not possible to ‘pre-load’ with electrolytes but try to avoid dehydration pre-exercise by allowing free access to water and forage beforehand. Although many believe allowing horses to drink immediately after exercise will cause colic, this is in a misconception and withholding water will delay rehydration. In fact, allow your horse to drink small amounts for the first 30 minutes and ad-lib once they have cooled down fully. To allow your horse to cool down efficiently, walk them round until their pulse and respiration rate have returned close to normal rates and sponge/hose them down if required. It may seem obvious, but whenever possible try to tie them up in shady areas if waiting around at shows and make sure water is available at all times.  

As an alternative, look for a specialist electrolyte supplement containing sodium, potassium and chloride. Supplements will often have dextrose and sucrose added also to help improve palatability. This can also support glycogen recovery, Glycogen is stored glucose, and it can take up to 72hours for levels to be restored following intense exercise. If competing, ensure supplements are suitable to be used under FEI rules covered by BETA NOPS. Care should always be taken however when using pastes and syringes particularly during exercise. High concentrations of salt will result in water from the body being drawn to the digestive system leading to further dehydration. Syringes and pastes should also be avoided for those at risk of or suffering from gastric ulcers.

This summer when packing yourself off with bottles of water and sun cream ready to brave the heat, always remember to think about your horse too. Providing sufficient water and electrolyte support will help ensure that they stay hydrated and if you are unsure about the level of support they need, get in touch with a nutritionist.

Summer Figures!!!

Finally, the sun has come out and rugs and coats are off which means it’s time to perfect that summer figure…not just for you but your horses and ponies too! This time of year, one of the most common problems I hear about is horses or ponies lacking energy, worn out after just one or two rounds. It is vital to remember however energy = calories, meaning as long as your horse is maintaining a healthy weight, they are receiving sufficient energy from their feed to support their workload. Lack of energy could also be due to other factors including changes in work, weather, routine, temperament and excess weight gain. Although it is tempting to increase feed to achieve a more ‘energetic’ response, this is unlikely to be the solution and you will instead encourage weight gain, leading to a porky, lazy horse! Traditionally adding a high starch mix has been thought to be answer but this often results in an increase in spooky/heated behaviour rather than helping them get to the end of the course any better, as well as causing them to gain additional squashy bits! Feeding a mugful or handful of mix will not cause the pounds to pile on, however in this amount is unlikely to have any affect at all. Finally, for those at risk of, or suffering from conditions such as laminitis/colic/ulcers, high starch feeds need to be avoided altogether.

Forage is the largest source of calories the horses diet so if your horse’s waistline is expanding, you may need to think about restricting his intake. Forage should not be restricted to less than 1.5% of bodyweight per day although depending on how much your horse is currently eating; cutting back so significantly may not be necessary. In fact, ponies turned out at grass un-muzzled have been seen to consume up to 5% of their bodyweight in grass alone! Equally, horse owners don’t have the luxury of being able to measure just how much their horse is eating once they are given access to grazing, so consider speaking to a nutritionist for more practical advice on managing individual horses and ponies. Grazing muzzles have been shown to reduce grass intake by 80% but strip grazing, turnout in bald paddocks or stabling for part of the day may also help. However, be cautious of turning out for short periods un-muzzled. Although turning out for just a few hours per day may seem like a logical way to restrict grass intake, studies have shown that ponies can quickly learn to ‘gorge’ almost 1% of their bodyweight in only 3 hours un-muzzled!

Hard feed will also need a re-think. You may need to reduce or remove the ration you are currently supplying and instead top up or replace with a balancer to provide the correct levels of vitamins, minerals and quality proteins but without the weight gain? So long as you are providing a balanced diet, you could consider adding an energy supplement. There are several available on the market, just be cautious of those containing iron, as providing iron in excess amounts can be toxic. Most horses and ponies will receive sufficient levels of iron from their forage and there is no evidence to suggest that supplementing with additional sources will help improve stamina/energy levels.

All in all if your horse or pony is looking a little squishy round the edges, putting them on a summer diet may just help them get that spring back in their step!

Balancers...your heroes this spring and summer!!!

 
Spring is well and truly here and now the grass is coming through thick and fast, many of you are wondering what, if anything at all, to feed your beloved companions. Although many horses and ponies can have their feed significantly reduced as they maintain their weight on the lush spring grass alone, unfortunately you cannot be sure exactly what they are receiving in terms of vitamins, minerals and quality proteins…cue balancer to the rescue! Although often associated with building condition/weight, this is a misconception and in fact a balancer is a small nutrient dense pellet which contains negligible levels of calories, therefore avoiding weight gain. Throughout spring and summer months, many horses and ponies are perfect candidates for a balancer, which will provide them with a concentrated source of vitamins, minerals and quality proteins, without affecting their already expanding waistline. Balancers are also useful for adding to straights, or feeds without added vitamins and minerals to balance the diet and providing to hardworking horses that maintain weight on low energy feeds. In any case where a balancer is used, an alternative option would be to use a broad spectrum, powdered vitamin and mineral supplement, however you will not always be able to tailor this to your horse’s requirements and furthermore you will probably find they do not have the added benefit of added quality protein. An added bonus of using a balancer is cost…a 20kg bag will last a 500kg horse 6weeks which could be as cheap as 56p per day, so although it may seem like a larger pay out initially, in the long run it’s a bargain!!!

With the exception of those designed for stud, when fed alongside a forage only diet balancers are typically fed at a rate of 100g per 100kg bodyweight (500g for a 500kg horse), which can be provided alongside a double handful of low calorie chaff/fibre if you wish, to make their bucket last a little longer. If you are feeding a reduced ration of compound feed however, the full amount of balancer will not be required, for example a half ration of balancer complements a half ration of compound feed.

When it comes to choosing a balancer, the choice can be especially tricky due to wide range now available. Start by thinking about age and workload, for instance do you need a balancer designed for those in light or hard work, or perhaps one formulated for horses under the age of 2 years? Secondly you could consider whether your horse would benefit from added functional ingredients such as glucosamine, probiotics and prebiotics? Remember, all balancers apart from those designed for stud, contain a negligible levels of calories when fed at the recommended ration and therefore those labelled with terms such as ‘Lite’ or ‘Low’ do not necessarily mean that they are the most suited to your horse or pony. If you are unsure which meets your horse’s requirements, speak to a nutritionist.

Overall balancers are your heros this spring/summer, ensuring that your horses and ponies get everything they need without weight gain. Additionally due to the negligible levels of starch and sugar, they are suitable for many of those tricky cases too!

Managing a Laminitic

Its spring, the grass is coming through and many of us are looking forward to warmer weather, lighter nights and less mucking out. However for some, the prospect of managing a laminitic horse or pony as the grass shoots through isn’t a welcome one. If this sounds familiar, the following tips might be helpful.

Grass grows more rapidly in spring and contains higher levels of sugar and fructan, which means restricting grazing is crucial. Research has shown ponies with unlimited turnout can consume up to 5% of their bodyweight in grass per day, which for a 350kg pony equates to approximately 1.3kg of simple sugar contributing to a total of 9kg of water soluble carbohydrate (WSC = sugar + fructan) from grass alone. You could therefore consider using a muzzle, which can reduce grass intake by up to 80%, significantly reducing WSC intake also, however muzzles should be well fitted and not left on for 24hrs. Other options include turning out in bare paddocks or strip grazing, but always remember to back fence, ensuring paddocks don’t simply increase in size. Alternatively if stabling to limit turnout time, be mindful that turning out for short periods without muzzles may encourage gorging. In a recent study ponies were seen to consume almost 1% of their bodyweight in just 3hrs! For some horses and ponies, grazing may need to be removed completely and suitable forage supplied. When this is the case consider using ménages and bark paddocks for turn out and remember not to restrict forage intake to less than 1.5% of their bodyweight per day unless under veterinary supervision.

Ideally forage and forage replacers for laminitics should contain less than 10% WSC. Although soaking hay has been shown to reduce WSC by up to 50%, results are variable and some may contain more than 20% to begin with. Soaking for 12-16hours in tepid water (16°C) is the optimum however as temperatures rise, it is recommend to reduce soaking time down to just 6 hours to help prevent bacteria build up. Forage analysis is another option and the only way to determine true WSC content. Alternatively provide a hay replacer approved by the laminitis trust.

Finally maintaining a healthy body condition and providing a balanced supply of vitamins, minerals and quality proteins is vital all year round. If your horse or pony maintains their weight on forage alone, consider a balancer, a small nutrient dense pellet that contains negligible levels of calories therefore avoiding weight gain. Body condition score your horse or pony regularly, always aiming to maintain a score of 4.5-5 on a scale of 1-9. If additional calories are needed, look for fibre based feeds which are low in starch and sugar.

Prevention is always better than cure and although you may still be mucking out whilst others are turning their horse out for the summer, careful management can help to ensure you and your horse still enjoy the arrival of spring and those warm evening rides. If you would like more advice on managing your laminitic horse or pony this spring, please call the SPILLERS® Care-Line on 01908 226626.

Winter Weight Loss

Winter presents a number of challenges, particular for poor-doers and of course their owners! If the recent cold snap and a lack of grazing has left your horse looking a little too lean, the following tips may help you to combat that dreaded winter weight loss.

First and foremost forage is the foundation of every horses diet, so start by ensuring your hay or haylage is of good quality and fed adlib, ideally in the field as well as the stable. Far from being ‘just bulk’, forage provides the lion share of your horse’s energy (calorie) intake and is essential for maintaining gut health. If your horse is a ‘fussy-feeder’ it may be worth monitoring how much forage he is ‘choosing’ to eat, aiming for a minimum of 1.5% bodyweight per day, (7.5-8kg/ day for a 500kg horse). Although grass intake is impossible for horse owners to measure, it can generally be ignored for underweight horses on poor pasture. Haylage is not automatically ‘richer’ as commonly thought and it is important to remember that due to higher moisture content, you need to feed approximately 1.2-1.5 times more haylage than hay by weight.  Forage analysis is the only way to determine the nutritional value of both hay and haylage and may be particularly useful when it comes to calculating haylage rations or choosing the most suitable forage supply for you individual horse. If your horse or pony has poor teeth, look for a short chop hay replacer or a cube that be soaked to make a mash.

Although moving to a ‘conditioning’ feed may seem like the obvious choice, start by checking that you are feeding the recommended ration of your current feed as a simple increase may be all that is needed; even if your feed says ‘low energy’ or ‘low calorie’ on the bag. If this doesn’t achieve the desired result; look for a feed containing higher levels of digestible energy and protein. Choosing fibre and oil rather than cereal based feeds is the most sympathetic option both in terms of digestive health and preventing unwanted excitability. However if your horse is prone to any clinical conditions such as laminitis, colic or tying-up, speak to a nutritionist before changing his feed. Traditionally sugar beet has been a common addition to winter diets and although it is high in calories and fibre, it contains approximately 80% water once soaked, making it easy to overestimate how much of it you are feeding. Whilst a Stubbs scoop of soaked beet pulp may look like a significant contribution to your horse’s bucket, it actually contains limited nutritional value. In fact, just 1 scoop of Horse of Pony Cubes is approximately 5 times higher in calories!

Finally make sure your horse is well rugged to help ensure he isn’t wasting valuable energy from his feed keeping warm. If you are reaching for an extra duvet you may need to think about doing the same for your horse!

Managing your horse's diet for Winter

Autumn is now well and truly upon us and as the leaves start to fall and the temperature begins to drop; many of us turn our thoughts towards winter feeding. Being proactive is undoubtedly the best strategy but this doesn’t necessarily mean we should be reaching for higher calorie feeds. In fact, results from this year’s National Equine Health Survey show that the incidence of obesity has more than doubled in the last year.

If your horse is a good-doer don’t be tempted to increase his feed just because the weather is changing; particularly if he has come out summer carrying excess weight. Winter provides a natural opportunity to lose weight, particularly for natives and allowing good-doers to slim down as nature intended helps to prevent excess weight gain in the following spring.

Even in winter months, many good-doers will continue to maintain weight well or in some cases too well on forage alone. When this is the case, a balancer is the ideal way to ensure that vitamin, mineral and protein requirements are met, without feeding excess calories.

Where possible, opt for soaked hay rather than haylage. Although haylage is not automatically ‘richer’ as commonly thought, soaking hay helps to reduce the sugar content and of course, less sugar means less calories! Dividing hay between several, double-netted small-holed haylage nets may also help to extend foraging behaviour and make reduced rations last longer. Forage should never be restricted to less than 1.5% of bodyweight per day without veterinary supervision. For a 500kg horse, this equates to 7.5kg per day although if your horse has access to grazing, it will of course be impossible to measure exactly how much he is actually eating. As a guide, feed no less than 50% of your horse’s minimum daily ration if stabled for 12 hours, remembering that this may need to be increased depending on his condition and grazing.

Grazing muzzles have been proven to reduce grass intake by 80% on average, regardless of the season and if necessary, can be used in winter months too. Provided there is sufficient grass covering, good-doers may only need additional hay when it is very cold or if there is snow on the ground, so try to avoid turning overweight horses out with those who need ad-lib hay.

Maintaining a healthy body condition plays a key role in supporting your horse or pony’s general health and well-being. Weekly weigh taping, preferably at the same time of day can help to you to keep track of gradual changes in bodyweight. However weight is just a number, so try to combine this with regular body condition scoring, aiming for a score of 5 on a 1-9 scale. Having said this, allowing good-doers to enter spring at a leaner score of 4.5 is generally acceptable provided that they are otherwise fit and healthy.